'Semi-cured' Salmon with Leeks and Cider Vinegar Dressing

While Spud and I eat a reasonable amount of fish, I'm aware that we don't eat enough oily fish - we're probably deficient in all that lovely omega-3 oil that is reputed to do everything from saving our hearts to making us brainy.
I love most oily fish (think of the charred skin of a mackerel cooked over driftwood on a beach in some far off memory) though curiously I'm not a huge fan of tuna.  My problem lies in buying the fish.  Oily fish such as mackerel or herring spoil very quickly and - while it's a truism to say that all fish should be bought only when fresh - oily fish has to be as fresh as a daisy.  While I trust my fishmonger, it's rare that I see a mackerel still stiff with rigor on his slab.
What makes matters worse is that Spud has an aversion (bordering on the obsessive) to canned fish.  While I have fond childhood memories of Sunday tea of toast with canned sardines mashed with a little malt vinegar and a splash of Worcestershire Sauce, Spud thinks the whole idea is abhorrent.

All of this brings me on to salmon.  The one oily fish we eat with some regularity is farmed salmon (as wild is now so very hard to come-by).  Salmon - even the farmed stuff - is high in omega 3 as well as vitamins A and D and must be A Good Thing.  And it's pretty cheap these days.  I remember when salmon was seen as out and out luxury, but now it's cheaper than most other fish at the supermarket or fishmonger. 

This recipe is based fairly loosely on one from Gary Rhodes (I know he isn't some of our readers' favourite chef...) with a few adaptations. The idea of 'semi-curing' the fish is an interesting one - the idea is to bring some of the moisture out of the salmon to give it a little more resistance to the bite.  It doesn't make it tough, but it does alter the texture.  Interestingly, the salmon takes on a slightly sweet edge from the sugar but none of the salt.

'Semi-cured' Salmon with Leeks and Cider Vinegar Dressing
For the fish:
2 fillets of salmon, skin removed (preferably 'pavé' cut - this is a tranche of the salmon taken from a thicker part of the body, about an inch and a half wide)
1 heaped teaspoon sea salt
1 heaped teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon olive oil

For the leeks:
1 leek, cut lengthways into strips, separated and washed
a small knob of butter

For the sauce:
3 tablespoons dry vermouth such as Noily Pratt
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 small shallot, peeled and quartered
1oz butter

First, mix the salt and sugar together and rub all over the fish.  Cover and refrigerate for 2-6 hours.
Remove from the fridge and wash the fillets well.  Drain.
With a sharp, long bladed knife, cut each fillet into four or so thin fillets - about the thickness of two pound coins.

Put all the sauce ingredients except the butter into a small saucepan and put on a medium heat.  Bring to the boil and reduce to about a third.  Remove the peppercorns and shallot pieces.

For the leeks, melt the butter and add the leeks, cook over a medium high heat until the leeks are cooked al-dente.

Put a pan on a high heat for the salmon.

When the pan is hot, add half the oil and coat the pan.  Start adding the salmon pieces - you'll need to do this in two batches almost certainly.  By the time you have put half the pieces in the pan, start turning the first piece - they take just seconds to cook.  Once all have been turned, start removing from the heat and place on a warmed plate.  Cook the second batch.

Add the butter to the hot sauce and swirl around the pan.  Bring to a simmer.

Plate-up:  Leeks, salmon, spoon the sauce over the top.

Serves 2

To make this more substantial, I served this on a bed of mashed potato and celeriac which went very well - though simple buttery mashed potato would also be good. 

tags: fish  

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